You may contact this author via email with any questions or comments. Feedback is welcome. This project is being developed with the assistance of numerous professionals.

PROPOSED ORDINANCE – CITY OF CHICAGO

Transfer of real property containing CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit)

Transaction Disclosure Forms

Intent

The intent of this discussion is NOT to look back and lay blame. Such endeavors are better left to parties better suited for such actions.

This proposal is intended to open up dialogue about building construction concerns, initiate action on proposals and serve as a basis from which to better protect the people of Chicago from non-compliant construction procedures during CMU builds.

The City of Chicago cannot continue to allow the residents of Chicago and visitors to be put at continued financial and physical risk due to CMU buildings that are being built using insufficient construction that results in ongoing negative consequences. The resulting problems are creating an undue burden on owners while developers walk away virtually unaffected.

Concerns have been raised about these methods for years. Those concerns were often brushed off as a professional being overly ‘picky’. Some have stated that a proposal like this is equivalent to closing the barn door after the horse has already run out. People who make such statements are often the same ones who pronounced there was nothing to worry about in the first place. We can’t change the past. What we can however do is take steps to ensure that once housing construction recovers, guidelines are in place to protect the public from the same types of problems. Just as general building codes have evolved over the years due to new information, so it is now time for the Municipal Code to evolve in relation to CMU construction. It is important that steps are taken now to ensure that CMU style buildings are built to a uniform, definable and long lasting standard. Waiting until the next housing boom starts may once again be too late.

This proposal is intended to address several concerns. The disclosure forms will hopefully act as a ‘Consumer Protection’ act.  The proposed City ordinances will hopefully act as a clearer compliance mechanism. The proposed Municipal Code additions will hopefully act as clearer and definable standard that can be more readily enforced in the field.

PROPOSAL CONTENTS

• Definitions
• Statement of Need
• New Construction disclosure form
• Existing Buildings disclosure form
• Proposed City Ordinance
• Proposed City Code additions
• Model Standard for CMU construction
• CMU construction training and certification process for contractors, developers and inspectors

*Definitions to be added periodically

Definition of CMU building (Cement Masonry Unit):

For the purposes of the proposed disclosure form, henceforth the term CMU, is meant to include common cement block, split face cement block, cement block inner course and brick outer course, composite walls and other construction combinations involving any amount of CMU type block used for exterior / perimeter wall construction

* Various exemptions are allotted for such as interior cavity elevator or stairwell shafts. A full exemption list is assumed to be part of any approved Code additions.

Statement of Need

During the last housing boom CMU building construction was unprecedented in the Chicagoland area. Single family and multi-unit Condo buildings were constructed throughout Chicago and the suburbs. During that boom period it appeared as if any and every lot was the right location for a CMU building. Oversight, sufficient training and compliance verification as to how exactly these buildings were being constructed could not keep pace with industry need. Granted, approved architectural blueprints outlined building details. On the jobsite however, conditions varied greatly. Adherence to approved plans and use of all needed materials appeared sporadic. This has led to construction conditions that result in ongoing problems for building and/or unit owners in CMU style buildings. Water intrusion is a common problem and appears to be getting worse as buildings age. Water intrusion investigation is becoming a common service for experienced home inspectors. Contractors who specialize in remediation and repair work have also been getting more and more business. As much as this is good for parts of the industry, it has also become a financial nightmare for building owners. Buyers who thought they were buying a ‘brick’ building are finding out that this isn’t quite the case.

Almost everyone along the supply chain can be blamed to some extent if that is the goal. That is however not the goal of this proposed ordinance. Such agendas are better left to lawyers. As valid as ‘could have / should have’ scenarios may be, focusing on them does not help the home buying public. Current owners need sufficient education of the issues. New buyers need to be provided with a degree of confidence that what they are buying is compliant. It is imperative that the public is educated about these new types of buildings and that the City of Chicago play a lead role in the discussions.

The construction deficiencies in these buildings cannot be blamed on one particular shortcoming. Deficiencies run among a wide range of problems including insufficient or improper material use; improper installations; poor workmanship; and general lack of understanding of how wall systems work. Based on years of field work by many inspectors it appears that all the issues can be summarized into two primary categories; money and insufficient training.

Using the right materials and proper amounts of materials costs more money than not using such materials. This of course cuts into developer profit. Since negative financial repercussions against a developer appear to be rare; it would seem many chose to take that risk.

Inspection after inspection has repeatedly shown that workers (and sometimes developers) do not sufficiently understand that CMU walls differ significantly from vintage brick walls. Workers who were traditionally trained as masons and tuckpointers working with vintage style brick were hired to build CMU structures with no verifiable training. Many contractors simply did not understand that these structures are ‘wall systems’ that need to be built properly in order to perform as intended. Some contractors simply didn’t care.

This has resulted in structures being built, and sold to the unsuspecting public that have inherent problems. These problems often are very costly and time consuming to repair sufficiently for the building to remain safe. Baseline issues usually involve drywall damage and mold like substance growth due to water intrusion. Next level issues typically involve extensive drywall and insulation removal, floor damage and occupancy limitations. The worst cases involve extensive to full gut rehab of interior walls, structural repairs and substantial exterior repairs. In some instances over time it may become too late for a building to be saved within feasible costs. Beyond pesky water intrusion and mold issues mentioned, we are already seeing structural deterioration problems in the field. Wood truss and joist systems were installed into wall pockets without any separation between the wood and masonry. Water intrusion in these pockets is rotting away truss ends and leading to structural hazards.

The buying public is typically unaware of these problems and the maintenance needs of CMU buildings during the home buying process. Water barrier, flashing and maintenance information is not provided by developers or as part of any known disclosure forms at this time. Real estate agents avoid the topic as much as possible. New property owners generally don’t become aware of maintenance needs or deficient construction until it’s too late. If the potential costs related to purchasing a CMU building or condo were better known to buyers, market demands could possibly have improved construction conditions.

We believe this proposed ordinance and related information can go a long way in protecting the public from potential unknown costs and hazards. We feel that it is imperative that the City of Chicago pass this ordinance and make various related recommendations part of the City of Chicago Municipal Code.

CITY OF CHICAGO BUILDING TRANSACTION DISCLOSURE FORM

NEW CONSTRUCTION – CMU EXTERIOR WALL CONSTRUCTION

This disclosure form must be completely filled out and provided to any buyer as part of the home buying disclosure process. This disclosure is required regardless of the quantity of CMU used as part of the construction. Exceptions are listed in the City of Chicago Municipal Code Section XXX Failure to provide this document without request will incur penalties and delay property transfer. A copy of the disclosure form must be part of the closing documents package.

Developer:

Masonry Contractor:

Qualifications to build CMU structures:

BUILD

Date of Build:

Type/Manufacturer of CMU used:

Type of flashing between levels:

Type of flashing at doors and windows:

Type of flashing at coping tile and parapets:

Verification of end dams:

Verification that all flashings are ‘turned UP’ as required:

Standards used for construction method:

(ASTM/ANSI/BIA/MIA)

Type of waterproof barrier installed around truss/joist set into CMU walls:

*Full wrap of wood member surfaces in contact with CMU required as per Code Section X

EXTERIOR WATER REPELLANT

Water repellant product used:

Application method:

Concentration % of material:

Date of application:

Manufacturer listed lifespan:

Estimated re-application date:

INTERIOR

Wall framing type and fastening to interior of CMU:

Vapor retarder installed, type & location:

Insulation type and R value:

Air gap between CMU and framing/insulation:

(specify in inches or increments thereof)

Signed:      _______________________                 Notary Seal: _________________

Title:          _______________________

Date:          ____________                                           Date: _________

CITY OF CHICAGO BUILDING TRANSACTION DISCLOSURE FORM

EXISTING BUILDINGS – CMU EXTERIOR WALL CONSTRUCTION

This disclosure form must be completely filled out and provided to any buyer as part of the home buying disclosure process. This disclosure is required regardless of the quantity of CMU used as part of the construction. Exceptions are listed in the City of Chicago Municipal Code Section XXX. Failure to provide this document without request will incur penalties and delay property transfer. A copy of the disclosure form must be part of the closing documents package.

Current owner:

Length of ownership:

Was a new construction disclosure form provided upon purchase:

Current Condo Association entity:

Masonry Contractor (if known):

Qualifications to build CMU structures:

EXISTING BUILD CONDITIONS

Date of Build:

Type of CMU construction:

Are flashings visible at door & window lintels:

Are flashings visible between levels:

Standards used for construction method:

(if known)

EXTERIOR WATER REPELLANT

Last date building exterior was treated:

Water repellant product used:

Application method:

Concentration % of product:

Manufacturer listed lifespan:

Estimated re-application date:

INTERIOR

Has the Condo Association hired or paid for inspection and/or remediation services related to water intrusion, seepage or any CMU related defect issues:

Has the Condo Unit Owner hired or paid for inspection and/or remediation services related to water intrusion, seepage or any CMU related defect issues:

Has the Building owner hired or paid for inspection and/or remediation services related to water intrusion, seepage or any CMU related defect issues:

Has drywall and/or insulation been removed along exterior walls by anyone due to water or mold like substance concerns:

Signed:      _______________________                 Notary Seal: _________________

Title:          _______________________

Date:          ____________                                           Date: _________

PROPOSED ORDINANCE

CITY OF CHICAGO

CMU EXTERIOR WALL CONSTRUCTION

DISCLOSURE FORM REQUIREMENTS

This section will include formal language for the proposed ordinance in standard formatting for such purposes.

PROPOSED ORDINANCE – CITY OF CHICAGO

CMU EXTERIOR WALL CONSTRUCTION – MUNICIPAL CODE ADDITIONS

This section will include recommended Code additions and amendments.

Current bullet points are meant as baseline Code sections. Full wording will evolve.

• Wood framing into Masonry walls – waterproof membrane full wrap of wood members set into masonry walls
• Clarification on flashing protrusion
• Clarification of flashing installation methods
• Initial build CMU waterproofing or coating application requirements and disclosure
• Code section pertaining to periodic re-application of coatings

MODEL STANDARD FOR CMU NEW CONSTRUCTION BUILDINGS

WITHIN THE CITY OF CHICAGO

SINGLE FAMILY AND SMALL MULTI-UNIT BUILDINGS

The intent of this section is to provide a Model standard that can be used as a basis to formulate a formal standard that can be made part of the City of Chicago Municipal Code. By pulling the various applicable standards together into a Model standard specific to the types of CMU construction in Chicago for our mixed climate, this standard can hopefully be readily available as part of the Code book.

Currently there does not appear to be a cohesive standard for this type of construction in our mixed climate conditions. The current Municipal Code refers to various standards as references. However those standards are not actually listed in the Code book nor are they defined per construction or CMU type in a reasonably searchable manner for jobsite conditions. This shortcoming obviously leaves inspectors in the field and builders at a disadvantage. Are we really going to reasonably expect parties involved to find, buy and/or print out those standards? Or will the masonry contractor continue to do what he thinks will be Ok?

The topics covered in this article are relevant to both larger building associations with professional management in place and smaller self-managed associations. Both types of associations have similar needs and outlooks for the most part. There are however some significant differences as well. A small, self-managed association often suffers from not having the knowledge base that a professional management company tends to provide. Often times in self-managed associations, a group of people with little to no building management experience is brought together and are expected to figure it out. Some times this goes well; other times it doesn’t go well at all. A professional management company acting on behalf of the association is presumed to know what they are doing and provide certain benefits that come with that professional experience.

There are several primary issues to consider relative to a condo reserve study or building assessment. These are consistent regardless of building size or type. The important factor is that the association obtains an assessment periodically. This service allows the association to make plans for the future of the property and maintain owner equity outside of market conditions. A condo reserve study provides valuable information such as:

• Gaining an understanding of building conditions
• Establishing maintenance and repair needs
• Formulating a plan and budget to deal with building needs
• Obtaining reliable information from professionals in advance

Depending on the level of professional management, the management company may provide answers to building issues or recommend hiring an outside inspector. In-house recommendations vary in scope. A well-run professional management company will often provide unit owners with information and do the leg work to get things done. Owners typically need to only discuss, approve or not approve and pay for maintenance requirements.

When self managed, association members often don’t know what they should be addressing, how to address concerns or who to call to get answers. One of the great hurdles that small associations face is the notion that “I bought a Condo because I didn’t want to deal with repairs like a house needs”. Often times it can be a struggle for members to get other members to participate or understand that even though it is a Condo building, maintenance and repair issues need to be discussed and budgeted. Having a neutral 3^rd party provide such information can reduce conflict.

With the rise of smaller self-managed Condo buildings in the last decade, new and unknown issues have evolved for unit owners. Many of these self-managed associations are in new construction buildings. This tends to make newer owners, and especially 1^st time homeowners, think there isn’t anything to do. Whether it is new construction or vintage, every building needs periodic maintenance.

There are significant differences in what type of maintenance vintage buildings and new construction buildings need. Each has different deterioration factors based on construction type. Knowing and understanding those differences is one of the experience-based services that we provide for clients.

AIC can provide either a thorough building assessment report or a complete condo reserve study. A newer building that has never conducted its own reserve study would likely greatly benefit from a complete study. A building assessment can be sufficient for a property with an established and well functioning association.

Please feel free to call or email to discuss details for what type of study would be best suited for your building.

Note: This article is based on your Condo building having a functional association. If there is no functional association, there are other factors to deal with first. Those issues are addressed in another article on this website.

Selling one’s home or property can be much more time consuming and exhausting than people often times realize. If your property is being sold as a tear-down or the neighborhood is so hot that not much matters, then you probably won’t have to do very much to get it sold.

However, if you are selling your property on the basis that another family will buy it and live in it, preparing your home for a quicker and more profitable sale takes thought and effort.

The following items should be considered suggestions and observations based on having worked in this industry for decades. Depending on your particular situation they may be more or less helpful. Some suggestions may seem obvious, some maybe not so obvious. When you interview prospective realtors they will probably tell you many of the same things. Remember, the realtor wants to get your house sold as quickly as possible as well.

GETTING THE HOUSE READY FOR SALE

Rule #1

Get rid of everything possible, throw it out, donate it, store it in the garage, whatever it takes. Empty the rooms and closets as much as possible. Make your home look like one of those model homes in magazine ads or on TV. It is a fantasy but it is nonetheless what buyers want to see. The big hurdle is getting buyers to envision themselves in your house as their HOME. You want buyers to be able to envision their life in this house, not be constantly reminded of your life in this house. I’ve done walkthroughs with buyers who spent the entire time commenting on the current owners ‘stuff’; rather than talking about how they would live in the house. As a Seller, that is not a situation you want a potential buyer to be in.

Maintenance

• Fix it – minor defects or broken items should be repaired or replaced prior to listing your home for sale as much as you can afford.
• Every potential buyer walks around your house making a mental or written checklist of what needs to be changed or fixed and how much it will cost. The fewer concerns there are, the closer you get to a deal.
• Whether you hire someone or ask an ‘overly honest’ friend to walk around and tell you things he/she notices is up to you. However, having a 3^rd party look around can be an eye opener.

Paint colors

• Paint almost everything a neutral color – most buyers have a hard time imagining your home as their home when the home looks too personal, too you. A buyer can imagine that off-white wall being their favorite orange but it is very difficult for a buyer to imagine your chartreuse wall being their favorite orange.
• This doesn’t necessarily include everything. A very classic dining room with currently popular colors could probably stay.
• Touch-up stain and polyurethane worn woodwork and trims. Touch-ups can be done fairly easily even by a novice.

Personal items

• Start packing – most of your stuff should be gone, packed up and off the shelves, tables, mantels, window sills etc. The buyer needs to be able to imagine their pictures or nicknacks on the fireplace mantel or window sill. That is difficult to do when your stuff is cluttering up the view.
• The pile of shoes buy the front door needs to get cleaned up. A buyer will think there’s no place else to put them.

Closets

• All those clothes and shoes you’ve talked about donating, do it NOW. The more clothes in the closet, the smaller it looks. There should be some room left on the shelves and hangers.
• If you can’t see the floor, the closet is too full. Seeing the floor of the closet when you open the door is a benchmark as to whether you’ve gotten rid of enough stuff.

GENERAL

• Collect all manufacturer and contact information about any custom made, special order items and appliances installed into one container. Let the realtor know you have the information. He/She can disclose this to a potential buyer. It indicates that you care and pay attention to your home.
• Call it what you want, ‘Murphy’s Law’, Karma, etc. chances are something will break during the selling process. Replace any questionable items prior to showings. Such as that doorknob that comes off sometimes if you pull it too hard. You are used to it, its no big deal to you. To a potential buyer it will be another problem that makes your house seem less well-maintained.
• If you need new garbage cans in the alley, call your local Alderman’s office. They can arrange for new cans to be dropped off. New ones look better than the 10 year old ones with holes chewed in them from critters having your leftovers.
• If your neighborhood has residential permit parking, have extra parking permits at your home for your realtor to handout as necessary for showings.
• Put most or all out of season outdoor items away. This will keep the yard, deck or balcony from looking cluttered and small.

INTERIOR

• Test smoke detectors and change batteries prior to listing. Smoke detectors will beep intermittently if the battery is weak. This can be very annoying during a showing.
• Carbon monoxide detectors should be plugged in or have a new battery.
• If you smell dampness or high humidity in your home find out what the problem is and fix it before listing. Any type of mildew smell is an immediate turn-off and warning sign to buyers. Take a look around the kitchen, bath, basement and plumbing areas. Check drains under sinks, caulk seams along tubs and showers, radiators and humidifier lines. Consider calling a plumber if you can’t figure out the source of the smell.
• If you see yellowish stains or a white powdery substance above or around windows or doors on drywall or plaster along outside walls. There’s a good chance you have a wall leak. Water intrusion and resulting mold concerns have become huge issues for buyers. Fix and document any leaks before listing.
• Make sure handrails along stairs are secure.
• Consider re-caulking all bathtubs and showers.
• Have the furnace properly cleaned and change the filter.

EXTERIOR

• Bushes should be trimmed properly so as to not touch building walls. When plants are in contact with building walls they can cause direct water transfer to the wall and promote faster erosion and rot.
• Trees branches should be trimmed as needed so that they do not make contact with walls or overhang the roof. Trees branches extending over roofs can lead to premature shingle deterioration. Overhanging tree branches also act as a pathway onto your home for squirrels or other rodents.
• Flaking paint on woodwork should be scraped, primed and repainted as much as possible. Curb appeal is paramount to getting people to actually come inside.
• Having trouble getting your keys in and out of your exterior locks? So will the realtor trying to show the house. Don’t have it be a hassle to get in. Spray some WD40 or 4-in-one oil onto a key and slide it in and out of the problem lock a few times this should free it up nicely.
• When rerouting downspouts away from foundation walls, be sure not to create a trip hazard by running downspout extensions across sidewalks or walking paths. Your downspouts should extend out at least 6’ as possible away from the house.
• Upper roof area gutters should have downspouts run to lower roof area gutters. Upper roof area gutters should not be allowed to drain directly onto lower roof shingles. The downspouts may not be very attractive to some. However, improper drainage can seriously reduce the life expectancy of roofing shingles and other materials.
• When gardening attempt to keep bark, dirt and other organics away from wood type siding or trims to reduce rot potential.
• Wash the windows and screens

Some of the maintenance items mentioned in these lists are concerns that commonly come up during a home inspection. The fewer items of concern on the home inspection report, the closer you are to getting your house sold.

You’ll know when you are done getting stuff out of the house when you suddenly walk around your own house and think, ‘Hey, this place isn’t bad, I wouldn’t mind living here’.

Good Luck.

A buyers assessment of whether a particular property is a good investment or not depends on many factors. Those factors also vary depending on the purpose of the purchase. An owner occupant will have different considerations than a multi-unit building buyer even if the buildings are in the same neighborhood. A Condo buyer will have different ideas than a detached single family homebuyer.

For an investment property buyer a good deal of the answer to that question is math. What condition is the building in; does the building cash flow; what are projected upkeep costs; and can I keep the units rented?

For a single family home buyer the question isn’t necessarily so easy. Whether the building cash flows or not isn’t relevant. When a homebuyer asks if a property is a good investment, what they are really asking is ‘Will I get my money back along with some extra when I go to sell?’ This question of course goes to how we view homeownership.          Typically when buying a house, we want to anticipate a sufficient profit from the sale of that house in order to buy the next bigger house; retire; fund college tuitions; or start a business.

Obviously there are no guarantees. A great looking investment today can be a total loser in 10 years if the neighborhood changes for the worse dramatically or a gas station is built next door. There are however some questions that a homebuyer can evaluate that may help.

Do I really ‘like’ the idea of living in this house, in this neighborhood? If you do, chances are future buyers may as well. If you are provisional about it, future buyers may also be hesitant.

Is this a short term or a long term purchase? Some houses will work well from an investment viewpoint in the long term but not so well in the short term.

Are you getting the property for a reasonable price that allows for equity to build up?

Does the house have options to upgrade or improve to gain equity? Gaining additional equity in a completely rehabbed house may be strictly tied to the local market values. A house that you can improve over time can allow you to build equity through those improvements.

How is the neighborhood; stable, on the decline, on the upswing? For a short term purchase this can be a big factor. For a long term purchase it is typically less of a concern. Up and down swings in neighborhoods are common.

What do other house in the are look like? Are house being maintained or not? Is that a lot of rehab going on in the area that will bring values up over time?

In the end analysis the question has to come down to more than just money. Part of whether a particular house is a good investment or not depends on how well that house serves your family needs. It is important to look at how well your family will live in that home in that location. Are schools, parks, transportation and general services nearby? Will this house allow you improve your life in other ways? For instance, House A needs more improvements but will greatly reduce your travel time to work. This in turn can allow you to spend more time at home and have dinner together. House B on the other hand needs no improvements but is further away from work. You would be driving more but you would ‘own’ your weekends because you wouldn’t be working on the house all the time.

Taking such factors into consideration, it becomes impossible for anyone but the actual buyer to make a final determination as to whether a house is a good investment. A great financial investment may not be the best family investment and vice-versa.

I hope you find this helpful in your decision making process. Feel free to contact me about your home purchase needs.

To ask a question, please leave a comment below. I will receive an email notification and respond as quickly as possible.

This is a question that many a homeowner has asked at one time or another. The unfortunate scenario, is that this question is often asked in frustration or anger by building owners during a remodeling job. The perception is that ‘all was going well’ until the City inspectors showed up. That however is usually not the reality of the situation. This article will not address permits, licensing or related legal compliance issues. That is a topic for another discussion. It only seeks to clarify why coming into compliance is not only necessary but also a good idea.

One can look at construction tragedies throughout history to see, the sometimes fatal, problems that occur when building codes are not followed. There are usually at least a few stories in the news annually about a building or porch failure that could have been avoided altogether, or been less tragic, if the structure had met building codes.

There are a lot of reasons why municipalities need to have building codes in place. All of the various reasons, and excuses at times, can be summed up into two primary categories:

1) Public safety

2) Consumer safety

The Code isn’t in place for Saturday afternoon when you are relaxing in your lounge chair, reading a favorite book, sipping tea and nibbling biscuits. The Code is in place so that when all hell breaks loose at 2 AM, YOU at least have a chance of getting out alive.

It is important to understand that the building code is a ‘minimum standard’. Building codes are NOT a maximum, best that can be built standard. If your contractor tells you he ‘builds to code’. He is essentially telling you he is building the crappiest construction allowed by local ordinance.

Don’t take that statement out of context. In many ways the minimum is sufficient. 5/8” drywall in a single family home for all intensive purposes is sufficient, along with being the day to day standard. Sure you could put in two or three layers of drywall and increase your fire separation and that would be better. 2×4 wood is the standard and generally sufficient for general framing. You could build 2×6 or 2×8 walls but most of the time there really is no need for it.

I could continue with more examples of how the ‘minimum standard’ is sufficient in various instances but that’s another topic. So let’s look at why that building inspector is bugging you about that pesky building code.

Public safety

The City of Chicago has, to whatever extent you want to consider it, taken on the role of ensuring a reasonable amount of public safety when it comes to the construction of buildings. I can assure you that without that intervention, those infrequent stories of building failures would be an almost daily news item.

When the general public enters a building there is an unstated belief that the building is safe to enter, conduct business affairs and get back out unscathed by improper construction. Without that sense of security how could we go anywhere, do much of anything except in the middle of a big open field?

Granted a contractor, builder or property owner is unlikely to want to build an unsafe structure. That would probably end up not going well for their families, employees or business operations. The critical question that comes into play without a ‘minimum standard, (i.e. Building Code) is “Where does the line get drawn between one more cost saving measure or a potentially unsafe practice?”

Whether we are discussing your single family home, an office building or a factory, there needs to be a level of acknowledgement and responsibility as a building owner not to endanger your occupants and neighbors by building something that could injure them outside of reasonable causes.

Even if you live in the middle of nowhere surrounded by nothing, your house needs to be built to some sort of standard; say like the local building code. You may not be too concerned for yourself and that’s ok. Consider however visitors to your home; relatives, your insurance agent, associates. They are all, probably without knowing it, assuming that your home is ‘safe’ to enter. It’s one thing to put yourself in jeopardy but its completely another to put others in jeopardy; especially because you want to ‘save some money’ on that electrical work.

I did an inspection where the owner had added a rear porch enclosure room to the house. As I walked in the room the floor felt like a stiff trampoline. When I asked the owner how old it was and if he had checked the extent of rot in the floor joists, he told me he had just built it not long ago and was very proud of it. In order to save money he had ‘bought the smaller lumber rather than that big, heavy, expensive lumber’. The floor was framed with 2×4 joists. Collapse was only a matter of time and getting more than a few people in that room. I unfortunately had to tell him it would have to be re-built properly.

Consumer Protection

You the consumer deserve to be protected from shoddy contractors and defective building materials. Not all contractors build homes as good as they should. Some don’t even know how to construct or repair a building properly.

It IS important for you and your family that a building is constructed or repaired properly and according to building code standards. These safe guards can act as a buffer between you and building failures. Lack of sufficient and compliant construction can have many affects. The two most obvious are injury and higher ownership costs.

Demanding that contractors, at the very least, meet minimum code standards is essential in helping minimize potential injury or death within a building. The problems often times are not obvious. I’ve seen many new staircases put together with ‘drywall’ screws. ‘Drywall’ screws are not rated to handle the loads that stairs need to sometimes endure. Will the stairs collapse while you are using them on a daily basis? Probably not. However, get 2-3 guys carrying that new couch or big fancy stove up those stairs and collapse is a real possibility.

Over the years, I’ve gotten many calls to look at issues clients are having with their homes. In older homes it’s usually a case of components aging out and needing replacement. In newer or remodeled homes though it’s often a case components failing because they were not installed sufficiently. I’ve seen bathrooms that needed to be torn out 2 years after being installed because wall tiles were popping off; lumber that was rotted because of poor plumbing work; and drywall that just wouldn’t stop cracking because of insufficient screws.

One would like to think that if you spend $10,000.00 on a bathroom this year, you won’t be spending that money again in 2 years to redo it all. The higher cost of homeownership due to non-complaint installations is a real problem that many homeowners have had to face.

Obviously that City inspector may seem like a real pain right now because your job is on hold. However, the issues he or she raises can make the difference between the current money you spend on that bathroom being the last, or just the beginning of a deep money pit.

As I hope has been clarified, YOU need a Building Code in place to protect yourself. So the next time you hire a contractor, ask him:

- If he knows the Code?

- Has he read the applicable Code sections?

- Can he explain some of the Code requirements related to your project?

- Does he have a problem with you hiring an independent inspector to review   construction progress for quality assurance and payouts?

AIC can provide compliance assistance before, during and after your project. Give us a call to discuss your needs.

Why Homeowner remodeling projects cost so much

• Inexperience
• Thinking that each little extra cost isn’t a big deal
• Not keeping track of extras as the job progresses
• Choosing nicer quality finish components than you planned on
• Hiring the wrong contractor

Don’t believe all you see on the do-it-yourself TV shows; remodeling jobs rarely go as smoothly and quickly as shown on 1 TV episode. Don’t believe the hype. Proper, long lasting remodeling isn’t that simple. If rehab were that easy, people wouldn’t go broke over it, get divorced over a rehab, or feel like they’ve gone through a war.

A rehab project can be a good learning experience. Often it unfortunately isn’t. Proper planning, consultation and good choices can make all the difference. Some homeowners even decide to do a few remodeling projects throughout their lifetime.

The following information is intended to be a primer to help you avoid some of the pitfalls of a major rehab.

HOMEOWNER CHOICES

We’ll work from the position that you aren’t a full-time contractor. Maybe you have a little experience; maybe you like to think of yourself as a weekend warrior; or may you think it can’t be that hard to do. Either way, you aren’t doing rehabs day in, day out.

Homeowners tend to go through a remodeling project in a vacuum of individual choices, rather than an ongoing path of successive interconnected decisions. If you make a bunch of rehab project choices separately, each decision seems Ok on its own. However, if one views the progression and consequences of each choice, the outcome doesn’t necessarily look as good. Because a home is a series of combined components that work together in order to function properly, rehab project decisions also need to be viewed that way. Upon completion, all components need to function together properly.

It is important to view each decision regarding a rehab not only on its own merits but also as to how it affects the job, budget and outcome as a whole. It is important to establish a realistic plan prior to starting the job. Once the project has started, taking a long term outlook may seem annoying at times but it can keep your project from spiraling out of control.

Construction material costs:

Lets get the negative out of the way to start. Homeowners like to try to make a project fit their budget. Sounds reasonable enough, right? Obviously, if you have 20K to spend, then that is pretty much your budget, give or take some.

Unfortunately, project costs are often calculated with exuberant optimism. Calculations, projections and attempts are made to fit a 30K rehab into a 20K budget. This is where the big problem starts. This is the big sand pit homeowners fall into.

Homeowner’s start out enthusiastic and thinking all will be well. Then costs start to increase for reasons they don’t understand. That’s when the project slows down and people get mad. All of a sudden the project is over budget and you are running out of money. The real issue here though, is that the project may not be over budget at all, it was just never budgeted properly from the beginning.

A DIY show used to buy materials from a supply house that I frequent. One of the guys at the supply house mentioned a few times how he would watch the show and laugh out loud at the costs mentioned on the show. The program had spent more just at his store than they were claiming had been budgeted for the whole project. I’ve also seen other DIY shows and thought that there is no way one could do that job off for the mentioned prices. Do yourself a favor and don’t base your budget entirely on numbers you hear on TV.

Another budgeting pitfall is relying too heavily on figures given to you by contractors that are vying to get the job during the initial bid process. Obviously you may not have a good idea what project X might cost and need to get prices from somewhere. Contractors are a good source, however there are cautions. It is a common technique for some contractors to low ball a proposal in order to get the job. They leave project related work out of the proposal to keep the cost down, knowing full well that work also has to be done in order to complete the project. Once the job starts, there are suddenly lots of extra costs. Sometimes those ‘extra’ costs were included in the another guy’s proposal. I have seen people pay as much or more for a job choosing the cheap, shoddy guy, rather than the more reasonable bidder. Once you get some bids, consider having a 3^rd party review all bids to clarify the scope of work. When comparing bids, it is imperative to compare apples to apples, not apples to oranges.

If you pay less for Model X Sony TV at a different store, that’s great. The same TV is the same TV whether you buy it at merchant A or B. Rehab is NOT like buying a TV. There are significant differences in quality. I am in no way suggesting you take the highest bid. I’m only recommending that you keep an open mind to whether a particular proposal is realistic or too good to be true.

This brings us to another overlooked part of getting proposals. A lot of people don’t realize that they should be going through several rounds of proposals. Each set of proposals should be more refined and detailed than the previous. Going through two, three or four rounds of proposals should not be considered abnormal for a major rehab.

This process helps you obtain more information, define the scope of work, determine the contractors’ abilities and narrow down to the best contractor for you.

FINISH MATERIALS

As long as you don’t read any home remodeling magazines, watch HGTV or go anywhere except big box stores to look at finish materials, you should be able to keep your budget in line.

The day you buy a few magazines, spend a morning watching HGTV or go to a specialty remodeling showroom, your budget may become a distant memory.

It is not uncommon for homeowners to see big box store materials as less than ideal once they’ve been to a ‘showroom’. Don’t worry it’s not just you. Style, design, better materials and finishing techniques are definitely appealing.

Is there a difference in the quality of finish materials between what is sold at the big box stores and showrooms or specialty stores? Well, Yes and No. There have been many news articles and product reviews that suggest both.

Based on years of experience, I can say that there is a difference. The differences may not be apparent at first. All new products tend to be shiny and pretty. The real difference tends to be more obvious over time. Finishes and components on better quality materials tend to remain looking and functioning better a few years down the road over cheaper materials.

There isn’t much quality difference in basic materials such as drywall, insulation, wire, plumbing pipe etc. Yes there are differences in quality from brand to brand. Overall though, basic construction materials are roughly the same. Big box lumber often isn’t as straight or nice as lumberyard lumber but it is functional. Big box plywood is sufficient but plywood supplier plywood tends to be more consistent.

HIRING A CONTRACTOR

There is tons of information on the internet and TV shows about how to hire the right contractor. A lot of it is good info, some of it is nonsense, and some of it will keep you from hiring anyone. Do a search and read away. I won’t go into too much detail but will just point out some major things to be aware of.

Consider

Talk to friends, call references, look at reviews, check your local paper, drive by buildings listed as having been worked on.

One or two bad reviews don’t make a bad contractor. Not all personalities match up well. For an isolated bad review, it may have been a personality clash or even the clients fault.

Don’t hire

Don’t hire the guy whose price is substantially lower than everyone else.

*There will always be differences in proposal pricing. Significant differences though can be a red flag. A caveat to this though is to make sure the bids are being compared on an ‘apples to apples’ basis, not ‘apples to oranges’.

Don’t hire the guy that starts out saying everything is ‘no problem’

*There is always some problem on a rehab job.

Don’t hire the guy who ‘urges’ you not to get a permit, license or insurance.

* You can make that choice for various reasons but it should be your choice, not his. There are good contractors without any of these who do very good work. They generally won’t be the ones pushing you not to worry about those pesky details.

Payments

• For an average small to medium rehab job, payments of 1/3 at a time are normal in the Chicago area
• Payments of half and half are also normal for small jobs that will only last a few days to a week. I wouldn’t recommend this though for more involved remodeling work. If you have an established relationship with the contractor or there are significant costs for specialty materials then that’s something to assess.
• For larger jobs, consider an initial deposit and then divide payments into weekly or bi-weekly installments based on performance.
• Consider keeping a separate notepad to track payments. Each time a check is written, record it in the notepad and BOTH of you initial the payment.
• EXTRAS: Pay extras with a separate check EVERYTIME! DO NOT add the cost of extras onto a currently due contract payment and write one check. Always write a separate check for extras. If you run into issues with your contractor, you’ll be glad you read this.

UNFORESEEN CONDITIONS

You will save yourself a lot of headache if you immediately accept that there will be unforeseen conditions that bring about extra costs. When figuring your budget factor in funds just for such instances. Depending on project type and size, figuring 10%-15% for extras should be sufficient. To expect that there won’t be any extra costs is to set yourself up for a lot of headaches and sleepless nights.

Once walls or ceilings are opened up, especially around plumbing stacks, near roof edges or next to stairs, poor conditions may become visible.

INSPECTIONS

‘We don’t need construction inspections, we have a general contractor’.

This is one of the worst misconceptions and mistakes that you can make. Yes, the general contractor works for you and in theory is working on your behalf to get the job done as best possible. However, the GC is also out to make money. Some decisions that get made on a rehab job come down to money. What’s best for the client may not be best for the GC’s profit margin.

It is not uncommon for a GC to make decisions that a client wouldn’t be thrilled with if they knew about them. Ask questions; Ask if there are other options; Stay connected to the jobsite.

Consider hiring an independent inspector to conduct construction phase inspections during the project. Hiring the inspector early on during the planning and bid phase can help provide a more compliant build. Construction inspections can be performed throughout the project or at key points. Costs vary depending on frequency and amount of documentation requested.

Construction defects are one of those issues that no one ever wants to think about. Builders like to pretend there either is no such thing; it’s just a pesky misunderstanding; or it is always something another Builder does. Municipal inspectors don’t have the manpower to catch all the possible defects during construction. Home inspectors worry about getting a call from an attorney asserting they ‘missed’ a defect they couldn’t possibly have seen.

Homeowners, for the most part, have only in recent years become relatively familiar with the term. When homeowners do hear ‘construction defect’, its usually too late and life is about to get complicated. It should be understood that not all construction defects are necessarily costly or dangerous. Some defects can be relatively minor and easy to repair. Others can be cheap enough to repair but can be a serious health or safety hazard if not repaired. We’ve all probably heard news stories that show how some defects can be quite serious.

There is no definitive definition of ‘construction defect’. The lawyers and State legislatures are still fighting over that one. If you do an internet search, you will find a multitude of answers. The definitions all vary but tend to be similar in interpretation.

In simple terms ‘a construction defect is a construction method or component that has not or will not perform as intended and should have never been installed as it was’. This can be for a multitude of reasons such as:

• The product will not perform as designed or specified
• Was never meant for the intended use
• Was altered or damaged during the construction process
• Is no longer UL listed due to alterations
• Is hazardous by its’ very nature of installation

There are several reasons why construction defects have become more of an issue in recent years. Some of these reasons include:

• Attempts at increasing profit margins by builders or contractors
• Lack of knowledge in understanding new products and methods
• Unskilled labor that is not familiar with proper procedures
• Use of inferior materials
• Construction being performed during improper weather conditions

Construction defects tend to differ greatly depending on whether it involves new construction or rehab of vintage buildings. The results however are often similar but differ in severity.

Some homebuyers assume that if a building is new, ‘it must be OK’. This is often not the case. It is not uncommon for contractors and subcontractors who are running behind to make poor decisions. Based on experience new construction defects tend to be inherent to the building as a whole. The defects are often built into the building during construction. This can make remediation much costlier, time consuming and sometimes barely feasible.

In vintage buildings, construction defects tend to be more ‘component’ oriented. Vintage buildings tend to have less original construction defects. Normal age deterioration and deferred maintenance should not be considered construction defects. Viewing such concerns as opportunities to improve upon the past may be helpful. Repair costs can often be more feasible.

Getting a construction phase inspection while new home construction is in progress can often identify non-compliance issues. Early identification during the build can allow time to have conditions properly corrected and allow the build to continue with fewer future problems.

On a vintage building remodeling project, having an inspector assess conditions can help provide a higher quality and compliant finished job. Contractors have a tendency to make better decisions when they know someone is watching.

AIC can provide one time or ongoing inspections and consulting services for your project. Please give us a call for a free consultation.

• Ask for copies of the last few Condominium Association meeting minutes. The meeting minutes can often times be very revealing about building conditions, ownership concerns or upcoming repair costs at the property.

• Ask for all information as required by Section 22.1 of the Condominium Act. Your attorney can explain the details to you. Your attorney or accountant can help you review the information.

• Ask your attorney to check for any outstanding liens against the building or association. Your lender may not approve closing if there are outstanding liens against the property.

• If insurance claims arise due to fire, water or other types of damage, refer to Sections 12 of the Condominium Act for information that may be helpful to you.

• Ask for a copy of the Association Bylaws, Rules & Regulations as soon as possible so you and your attorney have the most amount of time for review. There may be undesirable restrictions contained therein. (e.g. no smoking, no pets)

• Has the Developer / Builder filed necessary Condominium declarations with the recorder of deeds?

• Has the Developer / Builder obtained a Certificate of Occupancy from the City of Chicago or suburbs if required?

• When you move into your new home you will also be moving into a new community. In a multi-unit condominium property that community is much closer that many people anticipate. Condominium ownership, isn’t ‘just like living in an apartment. Individual ideas and perceptions may be affected by ownership.

• A good way to get to know your neighbors is to attend Condo board meetings. These meetings are usually held monthly or quarterly. The management office, if there is one, can provide a schedule.

MISC. INFORMATION

• Under the idea that “you want to be happy where you live”, consider visiting the property a few times to assess whether the existing ownership is a good fit for you. The criteria you use should be your own. As an example, if you are a 27 year old musician who really likes a particular building but discovers that the property’s tenancy is predominantly retired people, that building might not be the best fit. Finding a home in another building might be a better fit. The choice is entirely yours.

• Section 12 of the Illinois Condominium act – deals with insurance coverage for building items, common areas, installed items etc., relevant in case of a fire.

• Section 22.1 of the Illinois Condominium act – requires the board to disclose certain financial information, including the amount of the Associations’ reserves, insurance coverage and anticipated capital expenditures for the current and succeeding two fiscal years and a summary of pending litigation. This statute does not require a condo board to respond to questions concerning current or future special assessments the number of leased units or any other information concerning the provisions of condo documents.

• Some Insurance companies may not provide Homeowner’s coverage when a property has an older style fuse panel for the electrical service. Please check with your insurance provider if the unit has a fuse panel instead of a newer circuit breaker panel.

CONDOMINIUM UNIT INTERIOR

• Your neighbors are much closer than you might be used to. You may need to re-define what you believe are the right sound levels on your stereo and TV.

• If your sink leaks in a house, it might just leak into your basement. In your condo it’s probably leaking into your neighbors kitchen. Leaks should be dealt with ASAP.

• Test smoke detectors monthly, change batteries at least 1-2 times a year

• If you think you smell dampness or high humidity in your home that you aren’t used to, look around the kitchen, bath and plumbing areas. Check drains under sinks, caulk seams along tubs and showers, radiators and humidifier lines. A damp smell usually means excessive moisture. It is important to locate the source before it creates a serious problem.

• It is advisable to obtain manufacturer and contact information from the seller about any custom made items that have been installed. Having such information will make life much easier if service and repairs are necessary.

EXTERIOR & COMMON AREAS – generally cared for by the Association

• When considering alterations to your doors or windows that may affect the exterior appearance of your unit, check your condo bylaws before making costly alterations. Some condo associations limit exterior alteration options for unit owners. Often uniformity in exterior appearance is a requirement by the Association.

• Barbeque grills, whether gas or charcoal should not be set on wood or other outside decks made of combustible material.

• Barbeque grills, whether gas or charcoal, should not be set up against a wall or a railing system when in use. Flame flare-ups could cause damage or fire to the wall or railings.

• Some Condo buildings require you to take pets in and out via the freight elevator or rear stairways. It is advisable to check with onsite personnel to avoid offending neighbors.

We hope you find this information useful. It is intended to be a helpful reference. Please use this information at your discretion and try to remember, not all information is appropriate for all situations. Consult an appropriate professional for a particular situation as needed.

Please feel free to call us if you have any questions about the home inspection process or to schedule a home inspection.

We wish you happy days in your new home.

OWNERSHIP CONSIDERATIONS

Water & Sewer bills: In the City of Chicago the bill comes twice a year. Bill payment varies in the suburbs. The bill may be due monthly, quarterly or semi-annual. Check with your local village to have service put into your name and verify payment times.

Property Taxes: In Cook County the bill comes twice a year. Once in spring, once in fall. If the property taxes are not part of an escrow account as part of your monthly mortgage, consider ‘saving’ some or all of the money in a separate account monthly. Doing so may help avoid ‘bill shock’ or late fees.

Transfer taxes: There will be City of Chicago and Cook County transfer taxes associated with your purchase. Ask your realtor what the current rates are.

Ask the seller to provide manufacturer & contact information about any custom items, warranties or appliances. This will make getting service or parts much less stressful.

What could go wrong?: Call it what you want, Murphy’s Law, Karma, etc. chances are something will break the day after the closing. Be sure to have some reserves to cover such things.

If you need new garbage cans, call your local alderman’s office or 311 in Chicago. In the suburbs, such as Evergreen Park, Oak Lawn or Worth, you will typically need to contact the Village hall and request new garbage cans.

Utilities: Gas service in the Chicago is provided by People’s Energy. In the suburbs, Nicor is the provider. Com Edison handles electricity. Phone, cable and internet service providers providers vary in different parts of Chicago and suburbs. You may not be able to keep your current provider depending on location.

Mail: It can take the Post Office a few days to a week or more to change your mail delivery. Try to submit your change of address form as soon as possible.

Parking: If you move into a Chicago neighborhood with residential permit parking, you’ll need to get parking permits for your windshield and for visitors. If you don’t have a permit you run the risk of getting parking tickets. In order to get ‘zone stickers’, you will also have to pay off any outstanding parking tickets and show a receipt for a city sticker. Zone stickers can be picked up at the alderman’s office. Suburbs typically have overnight parking restrictions that you should become familiar with.

INTERIOR

• Test smoke detectors monthly. Change batteries at least 1-2 times a year or as needed. Many smoke detectors will beep intermittently if the battery is weak. Smoke detectors should be mounted high, within 4”- 12” of the wall/ceiling intersection.

• If you have purchased a home with an empty basement and are considering finishing that basement and there is any question at all about whether the basement takes in water, it is recommended that you wait at least one full year before remodeling the basement. This allows you to go through an entire seasonal cycle to determine if water does or doesn’t actually enter the basement during all seasons. Typically spring and fall are the most crucial times.

• If you smell dampness or high humidity in your home that seems new, take a look around the kitchen, bath and plumbing areas. Check drains under sinks; caulk seams along tubs and showers; check radiators and humidifier lines. Consider calling a plumber if the smell continues.

• If you see yellowish stains or a white powdery substance above or around windows on drywall or plaster along outside walls, there’s a good chance you have a wall leak. Assess and repair or call for assistance

• Do not run a whole house attic fan (exhaust type) when you have a fireplace burning. Running a whole house fan can create negative pressure in the house. Such pressure can draw embers out of the fireplace, onto carpets, drapes & furniture and cause a fire.

PERIODIC / ANNUAL MAINTENANCE CONSIDERATIONS

• Clean out gutters and bottoms of downspouts in the spring and end of fall.
• Change furnace filters.
• Check and change batteries in smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
• Prime basement floor drains or seldom used sinks periodically.

EXTERIOR

• Bushes should be trimmed properly so as to not touch the building wall. When plants are in contact with your building walls, they can cause direct water transfer to the wall and eventual erosion or rotting.

• Barbeque grills, whether gas or charcoal should not be set on wood or other combustible material decks. Keep grills at least 12” or more away from walls.

• Barbeque grills, whether gas or charcoal, when in use should not be set up against a wall or a railing system. Flame flare-ups could cause fire or heat damage to the wall or railings.

• Tree branches should be trimmed so that they do not make direct contact with the roof, walls or overhang. Tree branches extending over roofs can lead to premature shingle deterioration. Tree branches can also act as a pathway onto and into your home for squirrels or other rodents.

• Flaking paint on woodwork should be scraped, primed and repainted to the extent possible. Allowing bare wood to go exposed for too long will lead to early deterioration and more costly repairs.

• If you need to do concrete repairs around your property, remember that conventional concrete will not hold up if less than 2” thick. For patching or skimming thin areas look into using various types of acrylic or epoxy type concrete alternatives.

• Having trouble getting your keys in and out of your exterior locks? Try spraying some WD40 or 4-in-one oil onto a key and sliding it in and out of the problem lock a few times. The purpose isn’t to lube the key but to use the key to get the lube into the lock. Keys tend to pickup particles of dust/dirt when in our pockets, purses or cars. This ‘dirt’ gets transferred into the lock, making it difficult to operate.

• Do you have a lawnmower or snow blower? At the end of each equipments’ seasonal use pour a recommended amount of fuel stabilizer into the gas tank and run motor as recommended. This will make it much easier to start the engine next season. Fuel stabilizer can be purchased at most Auto parts stores. If you leave the lawnmower outside over the winter, cover it with a tarp to minimize corrosion.

• When rerouting downspouts away from foundation walls, be sure not to create a trip hazard by running downspout extensions across sidewalks or walking paths.

• Upper roof area gutters should have downspouts run to lower roof area gutters at the very least. Upper roof area gutters should not be allowed to drain directly onto lower roof shingles. The downspouts may not appear attractive to some. However, improper drainage can seriously reduce the life expectancy of roofing shingles and other materials. Depending on the roof size and configuration you may need to run separate gutters from upper roofs to the ground to reduce ice damming.

• Bark or dirt that is in contact with the bottom of wood siding walls can transfer ‘mold’ to the wood siding. When gardening attempt to keep bark, dirt and other organics away from wood siding or trims.

• Little saplings grow into big trees, when planting a sapling, don’t just think about its position now but how it will be positioned in relation to the house and other items in a few years when it is a tree. Trees need room to grow.

Accurate Inspections serves client throughout Chicago and surrounding suburbs.

So you’ve been looking at that open utility basement and thinking it would be a great space for an extra bedroom, bathroom and new recreation room. You aren’t the only one with those ideas. This is one of the most common major projects homeowners dive into. Turning that space into useable living space will probably also be cheaper than buying a new, bigger home or building an addition.

Almost anyone can turn a raw space into useable living space. Not everyone can do it safely, efficiently and Code compliant. There are numerous important factors that need to be considered with such a rehab.

If you live in the City of Chicago, you will need to hire contractors for a lot of the work but not all. Rules vary in the surrounding suburbs. Depending on your municipality and the classification of your building, you may be able to do more of the project yourself, as a DIY weekend warrior. If your property is a single family home, licensing tends to be more lenient. If your building is a small owner occupied multi-unit, say a 2 or 3 flat, there are typically more requirements.

There are significant factors to consider when remodeling an open basement. The following pages outline some of the common construction issues that come up in a basement rehab.

For those of you go-getters out there who don’t care about building codes or construction standards … You will when it comes re-sale time or when a municipal inspector comes knocking. Those 2 extra bedrooms may not be compliant. You won’t be able to add them on your listing sheet. And there can be substantial for removal of non-compliant construction.

Remember, proper construction keeps your family safer. Please plan your project properly.

There are two main factors to consider before starting a basement build-out. ‘Is the basement water tight’ and what is the ceiling height.

If this is a new home, I suggest you wait at least one full year before proceeding with a basement rehab. This will allow you to see how the foundation walls perform throughout all four seasons. People have bought homes in the fall, started a basement remodel right away and come spring rains find out that the basement takes in water. It does not take complete flooding to substantially destroy a new basement rehab. It is possible to do IR scans of walls to investigate possible water intrusion.

If you have been in the home for a few years, then hopefully you will have an understanding of how your foundation walls perform. Any seepage problems should be corrected prior to proceeding with a rehab. Even a small amount of seepage can create much more trouble in a remodeled basement than ever occurred while the basement was open. This happens for two main reasons. 1) Moisture gets trapped within walls and cannot just evaporate; and 2) Moisture comes in contact with organic materials such as drywall and lumber which usually causes contamination and mold issues.

BASEMENT build-out considerations

Basement ceiling height: Typically you will need at least 7’ to 7’-6” minimum finished ceiling height in order for the space to count as compliant occupancy square footage. If the ceiling height is less than 7’ the space is usually only counted as utility or storage space, regardless of how much money you spent to make it pretty. One of the biggest problems with low ceiling height comes when owners think they have added 1 or 2 bedrooms. Without sufficient ceiling height, it isn’t considered a compliant bedroom.

Egress: Depending on size you will need one or two means of egress from the basement. Depending on various factors, suburbs may also require an approved escape window assembly.

Flooring: Natural, real wood flooring planks are not recommended for below grade installations in most cases. This is due to the potential moisture levels. Natural wood floors can move or buckle too much depending on conditions. If you want wood floors consider using engineered wood flooring.

Open floor drains: Older basements typically have sloped cement floors and floor drains. If you plan to install finished flooring, I suggest you hire a plumber to assess and cap or extend the drains. Leaving the drains as-is and just covering them up may not be the most prudent option.

Light and Ventilation: Basement rooms will need properly sized operable windows. A glass block window with a tiny louver vent is typically not sufficient.

Insulation: There are two types of insulation to consider during a basement build-out; exterior wall insulation and ceiling insulation. Exterior wall insulation seems rather obvious. Ceiling insulation unfortunately is often overlooked until it is too late. Insulating the ceiling can reduce noise from above. It can be quite annoying to spend a lot of money on a basement rehab and then clearly hear others walking and talking on the 1^st floor. Sound insulation can be accomplished with various sound boards or batts.

Drywall: Due to higher humidity levels in some basements you may want to consider installing moisture resistant drywall (greenboard) along the bottom of walls in the basement.

ADDITIONAL build out considerations

• Plans: Chicago and suburbs such as Evanston or Wilmette will most likely require architectural plans for a basement rehab. Other suburbs may only require drawings. Check with your local municipality.

• Permits: Chicago and most, if not all, suburbs will require a construction permit. Costs vary. Chicago has a permit fee calculator on their website. At least some suburbs have permit fees listed on their websites. Permit fees are typically based on various factors.

• Costs for re-routing existing electrical should be factored into your budget.

• Plumbing vent stacks and floor drains may need to be extended or re-routed. This would entail excavation, plumbing and concrete work.

• If adding a bathroom, the vent fan should be exhausted to the exterior, NOT to a joist cavity or the attic.

• Most home heating systems are not sufficiently sized to handle the extra space of a complete build-out. You will likely need to add a new heating and cooling system. It is possible to upgrade an existing system to save money. The cost of a complete new system is substantially higher. A separate system for the basement space will give you better control and comfort levels though. New ductwork can be hidden in soffits along beams or joist cavities.

• Inspectors: Whether you get a permit or not, a municipal inspector may come knocking. If so, be nice, be polite, say Yes Sir and Thank you Sir; even if you think he is being a pain in your side. A municipal inspector can be very helpful and informative. If you make him or her mad, they can make your project hell. So be nice. Accurate Inspections can provide construction inspections throughout the project. This can help keep contractors inline and reduce construction issues. Costs are reasonable.

• A note on insulation: “Stuffing” insulation into a smaller cavity than it is rated for does not increase the R-value. This can decrease the R-value depending on product used.

Obviously this article cannot cover all the factors you should consider when planning this project. There will be variables based on existing construction components of your home, your goals and local Codes.

This article should only be considered a primer towards helping you understand some of the issues you are likely to encounter. These projects are complex but can be simple enough with proper planning. AIC can provide an evaluation report and helpful information that you can use to begin the process. The information can also serve as a valuable resource when interviewing contractors for the job.

We hope this article is helpful. Feel free to give us a call to discuss your project. Accurate Inspections serves clients throughout the Chicagoland area.